MEC&F Expert Engineers : A 1967 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER DIESEL TRACKED DOZER (229002A) FOR SALE.

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

A 1967 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER DIESEL TRACKED DOZER (229002A) FOR SALE.





A 1967 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER DIESEL TRACKED DOZER (229002A) FOR SALE. About 7,800 pounds. 104 inches long, 63 inches wide, 73 inches high, 12-inch tracks. Extra blade available for free.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/419597905253528/ 





International TD-6 Crawler Startup Procedure


Video for the TD-6: how it starts on gasoline and how to change over to diesel. And how to shut it down.
 

The dozer had new batteries put in but it needs a long cable from the batteries to the starter. I assume it would run. I had it running 6-7 years ago. It will need fresh gasoline and fresh diesel. The price reflects that it will need some effort to get the engine motor going.  Similar tractors (that run) go for $5,600 online.


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TIPS FOR DEALING WITH FROZEN MOTORS



I recently bought a TD9 crawler that has a frozen motor. The tractor was a runner, but after sitting for two years the motor became stuck. I bought it from a man who had intended to restore it, and the first thing he did was pull the plugs and try to fill the cylinders with penetrating oil. He never did try to turn over the engine.

I dragged it around my field and dropped the clutch a few times, but the clutch slips pretty easily. I was thinking of getting a socket and bar for the nut on the crankshaft, does anyone know a source or proper size for the nut? Is this a terrible approach anyway? I was hoping to avoid pulling the head.

I pulled the plugs myself to try to get my borescope in and peek around, but I was suprised to find that the plugs appear to be in the intake behind the valves. I am not familiar with these gas/diesel engines, is there another easy way into the cylinder, perhaps by dropping the intake & exhaust manifolds?

Where is the best place to get parts?

thank you

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I have a td-6 which I have been able to get parts for it here in Washigton but I don't know if that helps you much. As for putting a wrench on the snout of the crank I think that could be bad for a couple of reasons just depending on whats rusted or bound up. I have got a lot of questions answered like these answered at www.redpowermagazine.com. There are some guys that live and breath IH over there that can help I'm sure.

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If the motor is frozen, the best way is take off the head and you are going see the pistons end and save money, maybe it is all rusty and by the front crank you make more damage

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yes head over to red power and learn from all the pictures too. the boys there also suggest using carb cleaner and pour it in the cylinders, it is heaver then water so it goes right to the problem. you can also check out mt bar starter that i have used to unseize a many of motors and you can see it on my website.
www.kingofobsolete.ca


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The old gas start IH engines have starting valves that is what you are seeing. These valves open with a lever on the dash that operates a set of "rocker arms" under the valve cover to lower the compression ratio for starting. When you set it for gas start the butterfly in the manifold closes the big ports and allows the air to pass through the carb it also opens the ground switch in the end of the manifold to allow the mag to fire.

If it were me and I didn't want to pull the head I would set it for gas and fill the cylinders with diesel fuel and let her soak for a while. After a few weeks pull the starter off and if you can find a bad starter take the armature out and leave the drive and bolt on end in place. Weld a piece of pipe about 6" long to the armature and bolt it up where the good starter went. After that put a long pipe on the stub pipe and try to get her to turn over. 

This is what the previous post was talking about known as the King of Obsolete"s bar starter, he can be found at redpowermagazine.com in the IH construction board. Stop in some time and let us know how youre making out, puting a wrench on the end of the crank might work if it isnt stuck bad but in my opinion the chances of striping the end of the crank isnt worth taking the chance.
One thing you might want to try is pulling the valve cover and see if the valves are all free, I"ve seen engines that just have a few stuck valves and seem to be set up tighter than a drum. Just a thought.
Sorry if this is a little vauge, its been a while since I have given a bar starter a second thought, so if your interested in pics stop in at red power sometime. Good luck and just take it slow.