WATER DAMAGE Claims DUE TO Freeze-Up and Burst Water Pipes
Compliments
of the “polar vortex”, frigid temperatures in the Northeast and in the Southern
States have caused many water pipes to freeze and burst. Residential and commercial properties have
been affected. Pipe freeze-up and
unfreezing damages were particularly severe in southern climates, where piping
systems lack freeze protection more common in the north. Even in the Northeast, property owners saw
(and continue to see) significant pipe failures. Most of the pipe bursts occur inside uninsulated and/or unheated janitor closets, basements, attics, exterior faucets/piping, and so on. In some cases, fire sprinkler systems froze,
allowing fire to spread due to the lack of fire protection. Malls, restaurants and other walk-in retail
establishments suffered business interruption, and some lost power as well as
other utility services.
Most standard plumbing codes reference guidelines
or standards in recognizing freezing of most buildings. Typically, they are as follows:
“A water, soil, or waste pipe shall not
be installed or permitted outside of a building, or concealed in outside walls
or in any space where they may be subjected to freezing temperature, unless
adequate provision is made to protect them from freezing.”
In your evaluation and investigation of
these types of cases, you should keep in mind the absolute cause of the freeze up
and determine whether or not there are issues concerning coverage, liabilities,
subrogation, and ultimately evaluate the damage to determine extent of damage
and reasonable cost for repair or replacement of these items.
We had
already assignments for a frozen pipe activating a sprinkler system which
flooded the insured’s property. Both MSO and ISO policies contain general mitigation of
damages provisions requiring insureds to take reasonable efforts to prevent
further losses from occurring, such winterize the pipes in the home, maintain
heat, etc.
Ex.:
ISO Form HO 00 06 says:
We do
not insure, however, for loss:
C Caused by:
(1) Freezing of a plumbing, heating, air
conditioning or automatic fire protective sprinkler system or of a household
appliance, or by discharge, leakage or overflow from within the system or
appliance caused by freezing. This exclusion does not apply if you have used
reasonable care to:
(a) Maintain heat in the building; or
(b) Shut off the water supply and drain all
systems and appliances of water.
The insurance industry is presented
with claims that surround freezing of water pipes that ultimately burst and
result in property damage claims. There
are many causes for these claims, some of which involve the following:
1.
Improper
maintenance of heat in a building or chase way (occupied or vacant).
2.
Sudden shutdown
of heating system, combined with improper inspection or maintaining of heat in
a building.
3.
Deterioration or
lack of insulation protecting building and water piping.
4.
Mechanical or
electrical malfunction of a control or product.
5.
Inadequate
servicing and maintaining of piping, whether considered to be part of constant
wet or water flow piping, and/or a dry pipe system, which normally does not
allow constant water pressurization.
As the action or inaction of the
insured is critical in determining whether coverage applies, a thorough
examination of the circumstances of the loss is crucial: these claims are fact-sensitive and we can
assist you in properly developing them.
Burst pipes, flooded basements, devastating
structural damage, damaged floors, ceilings, carpets, wiring, furnishings,
wallboard, and mold are a few obvious results of freeze up and pipe burst damage.
These types of problems can result from
maintenance problems, mechanical failure, installation errors, low temperatures
maintained in buildings, or fuel delivery issues. Be sure to learn more about METROPOLITAN’s
proprietary Fuel Usage Analysis Computer Program. This computer program
compares data we retrieve with energy consumption levels to validate the
results of our investigation.
Why do water pipes burst in winter?
The pipe bursts always in a longitudinal fashion. The burst always occurs at the weakest
portion of the pipe. Because of its
unique properties, water expands as it freezes into ice by as much as nine
percent (9%) in volume. On the other
hand, a metal pipe shrinks when frozen.
In a pipe, ice forms first on the inside wall of the pipe and grows
radially inward until there is a solid plug of ice blocking the pipe. Until
that situation occurs, the expansion of the freezing water in the pipe merely
pushes water back into the water main. When the plug of ice completely blocks
the pipe, it seals water between the plug and a closed valve. If more ice forms
between the plug and the closed valve, the expanding ice has nowhere to go, and
causes the pipe to burst at its weakest point. Hot water pipes will burst much faster than
the cold water pipes.
Pipe bursting occurs when
(1) Freezing temperatures create ice blockages
in water pipes, then (2) Further ice growth applies dangerously high pressures
to a confined water volume.
Most of the research and claims investigated
by METROPOLITAN uncovers results that examine the effect upon the freezing process
of five variables:
1.
Design
temperature.
2.
Pipe
composition, (copper or PVC).
3.
Insulation
level.
4.
Pipe diameter (
1/2” or 3/4”).
5.
Water source
(cold or hot water tap).
The Freezing events in a water pipe can
be sub-divided into four distinct stages:
1.
Initial cooling
through super cooling.
2.
Dendritic ice
formation.
3.
Annular ice
formation.
4.
Final cooling to
ambient temperature.
Timetables for freezing temperatures
can vary, but the testing performed by the University of Illinois confirms the
following:
When a water pipe is exposed to
subfreezing temperatures, heat is transferred from the water, through the pipe
wall and any insulation layers to the sub-freezing air. The temperature of the water begins to fall in
a steep decline. Remarkably, the water in the pipe does not immediately begin
to freeze when it reaches the phase change temperature of zero degrees Celsius,
but continues to fall and approach the temperature of the surrounding air.
In research tests water pipes placed in an unheated, insulated attic consistently started forming ice when the outdoor temperature dipped below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees F). Importantly, the 20 degrees threshold is primarily for homes in the south and other areas where freezing may occur once or twice a winter or cold season.
In research tests water pipes placed in an unheated, insulated attic consistently started forming ice when the outdoor temperature dipped below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees F). Importantly, the 20 degrees threshold is primarily for homes in the south and other areas where freezing may occur once or twice a winter or cold season.
This process is known as super cooling. It
is possible for water in a pipe to super cool for a considerable length of time
before any ice forms. The temperature at which ice begins to form is known as
the ice nucleation temperature. The nucleation temperature implies a starting, or
a nucleus,
for ice formation. It is often claimed that, when subjected to identical
conditions, a hot water line will burst before a cold water line. One theory
states that premature bursting is the result of greater dendritic ice formation
in hot water pipes than in cold water pipes.
However, testing of water drawn from both
cold and hot water taps revealed that at the time of bursting, there was no difference
if the water was drawn from a cold water source or a hot water source. Further research and investigation is required,
but it is believed that a tendency for hot water pipes to burst before cold
water pipes might be due to the distribution of entrapped air in residential water
systems because of water heating processes. Clearly, you should be aware that the source
of the freezing temperature could be the overall environment, a broken window,
or uninsulated pipe exposed to the obvious temperatures. What occurs is an ice formation pattern in
which there is the expansion of ice, or the growth of ice, through the pipe. As the pipe continues to freeze, particularly
in a vertical situation, the frontier of the ice/water climbs in the pipe. At the same time annular ice against the pipe
wall grows inward.
The Forensic
Investigation
It is METROPOLITAN’s
experience
that there is no substitute for a thorough and comprehensive inspection of the
structures to determine the number of conditions that caused the loss and
whether the conditions worked independently, concurrently, or in a sequence to
cause the damage. For example, some
common questions include:
·
Was the pipe
frozen and burst due to lack of maintenance, wear and tear or incorrect
installation? E.g., old or corroded pipes, or no proper insulation, etc.
·
Was the
frozen pipe damaged due to negligence? did
the insured turn off the heat in the home or commercial property during cold
weather?
·
Did the
boiler or furnace shutdown and caused the pipe freeze-up? Did the boiler or
furnace had a mechanical breakdown or it was shut down by the insured? METROPOLITAN can reveal the causes of these
failures utilizing mechanical evaluation of the boiler or furnace, perform a
fuel usage analysis and perform an examination of the condition of the equipment
installation. We can also determine the
thermostat setting temperature, or whether the fuel run out, along with the
timing of these events. METROPOLITAN
will obtain a copy of the insured’s utility bill and will audit it for the
purpose of making the above determinations.
Our Energy and Fuel Usage Modeling will determine what really happened and
determine the cause of the pipe burst.
·
Was the pipe broken
due to normal wear and tear?
A comprehensive investigation is crucial to good claims
handling. It
is vitally important to conduct bench testing of boiler controls and a Comprehensive
Freeze Up Loss Investigation for freeze up losses. Courts have ruled against companies that have
skimped on their investigations and rushed coverage decisions in these types of
losses. Our clients require prompt and
thorough claims investigation and fact finding and METROPOLITAN delivers high quality services at a highly
competitive price.
It’s
getting colder and with that cold comes the hassle of frozen / broken pipes, if
you don’t take a few precautions. Here are a few winterizing tips that
just might keep me from having to make a service call to your house.
Hose
Bibs
#1 Disconnect all hoses from your hose
bibs! Most hose bibs installed these days are frost free which shuts the
water off inside the wall away from the outside cold but, if you do not
disconnect the hose the water stays trapped in the spout. When the
water freezes it expands and will damage the hose bib. This problem
is usually discovered in the spring or summer when you turn on the bib for
the first time and find water is coming out of your wall. Doing this will save
you a costly repair.
#2 Hose bib covers. You can get these at any of your local home
improvement stores. They are foam,
dome shaped covers you put over your hose bib. These covers help keep the cold away from
the hose bib. Hose bib covers are more important for non-frost free hose
bibs but it wouldn’t hurt to put them an all of your outdoor faucets. Putting these on will also help to remind you
to disconnect your hoses. These covers
cost about 1-2 dollars and are a wise investment.
Insulate Piping
Many people
often don’t realize the importance of insulating piping until it is
too late and pipes are frozen and broken. All pipes in crawl spaces and any piping that
is exposed on the outside of buildings or above the ground needs to be
insulated. Pipes in garages that are not
heated are also vulnerable to freezing in cold weather and should be insulated.
Pump
Houses
All
exposed piping in pump houses should be insulated. It is also important to have
some heat in your pump house so your piping and pressure tank do not freeze. Your local home improvement store will have
several different options for you to help keep your pump house warm and your
pressure tank and piping from freezing. Items
to look for or ask about are heat wire- this is wrapped around piping and warms
up when plugged in. It keeps your pipes
from freezing. Heat lamps can also be installed near your pressure tank and
piping and will help keep your pressure tank and piping warm to protect from
freezing. Both of these options can be
plugged into a temperature sensing plug that turns on when it gets below
a certain temperature and turns off when it gets above a higher
temperature. These can also be
purchased at your local home improvement store and are another great defense
against broken pipes and expensive repairs.
How
to keep pipes from freezing when temperature is going to drop below 32 degrees:
#1
Trickle water from a sink or two to keep water moving in your plumbing system,
moving water takes longer to freeze than water that is not moving, this will
help keep pipes from freezing.
#2
Open cabinet doors under sinks to allow warm air from the room to get back into
the cabinet where pipes are.
#3 Turn
your heat up a little warmer than normal. Warmer rooms mean warmer walls, and
warmer walls help keep the pipes in those walls from freezing.
#4 Cover
foundation vents around bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms that are on
exterior walls to help keep the cold out and away from the piping in these
areas. You can buy pre-formed Styrofoam blocks that fit in standard
foundation vents at your local home improvement store. These covers should be
removed when the risk of freezing is over in order to allow cross
ventilation in crawl space areas.
#5 makes
sure that all piping in attics and crawl spaces are covered with
insulation. A lot of houses have blown in insulation in attics which is fine
but it tends to settle and expose pipes. If you have blown in insulation
inspect insulation to make sure it has not settled and exposed piping. Batt
insulation is a better choice in my opinion.
How
to keep this from happening again:
#1 Make
sure that all piping in attics and crawl spaces are covered with
insulation. We cannot stress this
enough. This is where we saw most of
the burst pipes we investigated. Most
attics have blown in insulation and it settles over time exposing pipes. Exposed pipes freeze and burst.
#2 In
older homes that contain copper or galvanized piping consider replacing with
PEX piping. PEX piping may
freeze but it resists breakage. In the 1000’s of investigations we have
performed, not one break was PEX related. However, I did cut out 100’s of feet
of copper and galvanized pipe and fittings.
WHY PIPES BURST
Surprisingly, ice forming in a pipe does not typically cause
a break where the ice blockage occurs. It’s not the radial expansion of ice
against the wall of the pipe that causes the break. Rather, following a
complete ice blockage in a pipe, continued freezing and expansion inside the
pipe causes water pressure to increase downstream -- between the ice blockage
and a closed faucet at the end. It’s this increase in water pressure that leads
to pipe failure. Usually the pipe bursts where little or no ice has formed.
Upstream from the ice blockage the water can always retreat back towards its
source, so there is no pressure build-up to cause a break. Water has to freeze
for ice blockages to occur. Pipes that are adequately protected along their
entire length by placement within the building’s insulation, insulation on the
pipe itself, or heating, are safe.
REGIONAL DIFFERENCES
Generally, houses in northern climates are built with the
water pipes located on the inside of the building insulation, which protects
the pipes from subfreezing weather. However, extremely cold weather and holes
in the building that allow a flow of cold air to come into contact with pipes
can lead to freezing and bursting.
Water pipes in houses in southern climates often are more
vulnerable to winter cold spells. The pipes are more likely to be located in
unprotected areas outside of the building insulation, and homeowners tend to be
less aware of freezing problems, which may occur only once or twice a season.
Pipes in attics, crawl spaces and outside walls are all
vulnerable to freezing, especially if there are cracks or openings that allow
cold, outside air to flow across the pipes. Research at the University of
Illinois has shown that “wind chill,” the cooling effect of air and wind that
causes the human body to lose heat, can play a major role in accelerating ice
blockage, and thus bursting, in water pipes.
Holes in an outside wall where television, cable or telephone
lines enter can provide access for cold air to reach pipes. The size of pipes
and their composition (e.g., copper or PVC) have some bearing on how fast ice
forms, but they are relatively minor factors in pipe bursting compared with the
absence of heat, pipe insulation and exposure to a flow of subfreezing air.
When is it Cold Enough to Freeze?
When should homeowners be alert to the danger of freezing
pipes? That depends, but in southern states and other areas where freezing
weather is the exception rather than the rule (and where houses often do not
provide adequate built-in protection), the “temperature alert threshold” is 20
degrees F.
This threshold is based upon research conducted by the
Building Research Council at the University of Illinois. Field tests of
residential water systems subjected to winter temperatures demonstrated that,
for un-insulated pipes installed in an unconditioned attic, the onset of
freezing occurred when the outside temperature fell to 20 degrees F or below.
This finding was supported by a survey of 71 plumbers practicing
in southern states, in which the consensus was that burst-pipe problems began
to appear when temperatures fell into the teens. However, freezing incidents
can occur when the temperature remains above 20 degrees F. Pipes exposed to
cold air (especially flowing air, as on a windy day) because of cracks in an
outside wall or lack of insulation are vulnerable to freezing at temperatures
above the threshold. However, the 20 degrees F “temperature alert threshold” should
address the majority of potential burst-pipe incidents in southern states.
MITIGATING THE PROBLEM
Water freezes when heat in the water is transferred to
subfreezing air. The best way to keep water in pipes from freezing is to slow
or stop this transfer of heat.
Ideally, it is best not to expose water pipes to subfreezing
temperatures, by placing them only in heated spaces and keeping them out of
attics, crawl spaces and vulnerable outside walls. In new construction, proper
placement can be designed into the building.
In existing houses, a plumber may be able to re route at-risk
pipes to protected areas, although this may not be a practical solution. If
the latter is the case, vulnerable pipes that are accessible should be fitted
with insulation sleeves or wrapping (which slows the heat transfer), the more
insulation the better. It is important not to leave gaps that expose the pipe
to cold air. Hardware stores and home centers carry the necessary materials,
usually in foam rubber or fiberglass sleeves. Better yet, plumbing supply
stores and insulation dealers carry pipe sleeves that feature extra-thick
insulation, as much as 1 or 2 inches thick. The added protection is worth the
extra cost.
Cracks and holes in outside walls and foundations near water
pipes should be sealed with caulking to keep cold wind away from the pipes.
Kitchen and bathroom cabinets can keep warm inside air from reaching pipes
under sinks and in adjacent outside walls. It’s a good idea to keep cabinet
doors open during cold spells to let the warm air circulate around the pipes.
Electric heating tapes and cables are available to run along pipes to keep the
water from freezing. These must be used with extreme caution; follow the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid the risk of fire, and check to
make sure the product conforms to UL 2049. Tapes and cables with a built-in
thermostat will turn heat on when needed. Tapes without a thermostat have to
be plugged in each time heat is needed, and may be forgotten.
LETTING THE WATER RUN
Letting a faucet drip during extreme cold weather can prevent
a pipe from bursting. It’s not that a small flow of water prevents freezing;
this helps, but water can freeze even with a slow flow.
Rather, opening a faucet will provide relief from the
excessive pressure that builds between the faucet and the ice blockage when
freezing occurs. If there is no excessive water pressure, there is no burst
pipe, even if the water inside the pipe freezes.
A dripping faucet wastes some water, so only pipes vulnerable
to freezing (ones that run through an unheated or unprotected space) should be
left with the water flowing. The drip can be very slight. Even the slowest drip
at normal pressure will provide pressure relief when needed. Where both hot and
cold lines serve a spigot, make sure each one contributes to the drip, since
both are subjected to freezing. If the dripping stops, leave the faucet(s)
open, since a pipe may have frozen and will still need pressure relief.
IF YOU SUSPECT A FROZEN PIPE
If you open a faucet and no water comes out, don’t take any
chances. Call a plumber. If a water pipe bursts, turn off the water at the main
shut-off valve (usually at the water meter or where the main line enters the
house); leave the faucet(s) open until repairs are completed. Don’t try to thaw
a frozen pipe with an open flame; as this will damage the pipe and may even
start a building fire. You might be able to thaw a pipe with a hand-held hair
dryer. Slowly apply heat, starting close to the faucet end of the pipe, with
the faucet open. Work toward the coldest section. Don’t use electrical
appliances while standing in water; you could get electrocuted.
GOING ON A TRIP
When away from the house for an extended period during the
winter, be careful how much you lower the heat. A lower temperature may save on
the heating bill, but there could be a disaster if a cold spell strikes and
pipes that normally would be safe, freeze and burst.
A solution is to drain the water system. This is the best
safeguard. With no water in the pipes, there is no freezing. This remedy
should be considered even when the homeowner is not leaving but is concerned
about a serious overnight freeze.
To drain the system, shut off the main valve and turn on
every water fixture (both hot and cold lines) until water stops running. It’s
not necessary to leave the fixtures open, since the system is filled mostly
with air at that point and not subject to freezing. When returning to the
house, turn on the main valve and let each fixture run until the pipes are full
again.